Korean Lash Lift Guide

Contents

1. Prep & Consultation
2. Korean Flat Shield Placement
3. Mix Step 1 with Lash Lift Powder
4. Step 1: Lifting Cream & Control Check
5. Remove Step 1 & Change Shields
6. Tinting Options
7. Step 2: Neutralising Lotion
8. Step 3: Moisturising Serum
9. Aftercare Advice
10. Problem Solving Guide

1. Prep & Consultation

Client Consultation:

Before you begin, take a moment to chat with your client about their natural lashes, previous treatments and the look they are hoping to achieve. Are they after a soft, natural lift or something more dramatic and curled?

The first stage of a Korean Lash Lift is performed on a flat shield. The final result is then shaped during Step 2 using your chosen curved shield.

When selecting the curved shield later in the treatment:

• A larger curved shield creates a softer, more natural lift.
• A smaller curved shield creates a stronger, more dramatic curl.

Lash Assessment:

Before selecting your lash lift powder ratio and processing time, quickly check these three factors:

Health: Healthy lashes are smooth, even in colour and free from bends or frays. Compromised lashes that are brittle, broken or sparse should be processed conservatively or left to recover before treatment.

Coarseness: Fine lashes usually process faster and require less powder. Thick, coarse or resistant lashes generally need more powder and may require longer processing.

Porosity:

• Shine: Low-porosity lashes often have a shiny or glassy surface and can be more resistant. High-porosity lashes may appear matte or dull and can absorb solution more quickly.
• Feel: Smooth or slippery lashes generally indicate lower porosity. Slightly rough or grippy lashes may indicate higher porosity.

Avoid treatment if your client has:

• Active eye infections, such as conjunctivitis
• Recent eye surgery or cosmetic eye procedures within the last 6–8 weeks
• Extremely brittle, damaged or sparse lashes
• Known allergies or sensitivities to lash lift products
• Broken, irritated or inflamed skin around the eyes

Patch Test:

We recommend performing a patch test 24–48 hours before treatment, especially for first-time clients or those with sensitive skin.

1. Using clean hands or gloves, dispense a small amount of each solution and any adhesive or Lift & Lam Balm you plan to use onto separate areas of the inner forearm.
2. Let each product sit uncovered on the skin for 10–15 minutes.
3. Wipe off with a clean cotton pad. No rinsing is required.
4. Monitor the area for 24–48 hours.

Do not proceed with treatment if redness, itching, swelling or irritation occurs.

Cleansing & Taping:

1. Clean the lids, lashes and under-eye area thoroughly using oil-free lash cleanser or protein remover pads. Rinse if required and pat completely dry.
2. Secure the bottom lashes with eye pads or lash tape.

2. Korean Flat Shield Placement

The first stage of a Korean Lash Lift is performed using a Korean flat shield. This allows the lashes to be softened and lifted upward before they are transferred onto a curved shield to create the final shape.

1. Place the Korean flat shield as close to the lash line as possible.
2. Ensure the shield sits comfortably and securely across the eyelid.
3. Separate the lashes and place them neatly against the flat shield.
4. Optional: Apply a minimal amount of lash lift adhesive or Lift & Lam Balm at the base for very straight lashes.

3. Mix Step 1 with Lash Lift Powder

1. Massage the Total Care Step 1 sachet for 20–30 seconds to ensure the solution is well mixed.
2. Dispense the required amount of Total Care Step 1 into a clean mixing dish.
3. Gradually add Lash Lift Powder and mix thoroughly until the solution forms a smooth, creamy and tacky paste.

Use the following ratios as a starting guide:

If the mixture is too runny, gradually add a small amount of powder. If it becomes too thick, dry or clumpy, add a little more Step 1 solution and mix again.

4. Step 1: Lifting Cream & Control Check

1. Apply the Step 1 powder mixture evenly from root to tip.
2. Work in sections and apply enough product to coat the lashes without flooding the area.
3. Ensure the lashes remain separated and neatly aligned against the Korean flat shield.

Step 1 processing times with Lash Lift Powder:

4. Control check: Approximately 1–2 minutes before the end of the expected processing time, use a clean microbrush or lash tool to gently slide or move one or two lashes. The lashes should begin to feel soft, pliable and easy to bend. If they still feel firm or resistant, continue processing in short increments and check again.

5. Remove Step 1 & Change Shields

Remove Step 1 Thoroughly:

1. Remove the Step 1 mixture carefully using a clean applicator.
2. Wipe from root to tip until all solution and powder residue have been removed.
3. Check the lash line carefully before moving to Step 2.

Change to a Curved Shield:

1. Fold the Korean flat shield downward and remove it carefully.
2. Select your preferred curved shield based on the desired final result.
3. Reposition the softened lashes neatly onto the curved shield.
4. Ensure lashes are separated, evenly spaced and aligned in the desired direction.

• Small curved shield: Suitable for short lashes or a stronger curl.
• Medium curved shield: Suitable for average lashes and a balanced curl.
• Large curved shield: Suitable for long lashes or a softer, more natural lift.

Once Step 1 has processed and been removed, the lashes have already softened and taken their new shape.

Use a minimal amount of lash lift adhesive or Lift & Lam Balm only if needed to help keep individual lashes neatly aligned on the curved shield.

6. Tinting Options (Optional)

Total Care is compatible with lash tinting, giving you two options depending on how you prefer to work.

1) Standard Tint Method
After Step 2 has been processed and fully removed, tint the lashes between Step 2 and Step 3 using your usual tint and developer method. Follow your tint manufacturer’s instructions.

2) Express Tint Method
You can also tint and neutralise at the same time by mixing your lash tint directly with Total Care Step 2 Neutralising Lotion.

Total Care Step 2 contains Hydrogen Peroxide, so it can be used instead of a separate tint developer.

Mix: 1 part tint + 2 parts Total Care Step 2 Neutralising Lotion. Apply from root to tip without disturbing the lashes.

Do not add a separate tint developer when using the express tint method.

Process according to the Step 2 timing guide below.

7. Step 2: Neutralising Lotion

1. Massage the Total Care Step 2 sachet for 20–30 seconds to ensure the solution is well mixed.
2. Apply Total Care Step 2 solution from root to tip without disturbing the lashes.
3. Place a lash cover or tape over the lashes to keep them flat, secure and neatly aligned.

Step 2 processing times:

4. Control check: Use tweezers to gently peel one lash away from the shield. If it returns neatly to the desired curl, Step 2 is complete. If it sits away from the shield and does not return to position, allow additional processing time and check again.
5. Remove Step 2 thoroughly using a clean applicator.

8. Step 3: Moisturising Serum

1. Massage the Total Care Step 3 sachet for 20–30 seconds.
2. Apply Total Care Step 3 solution generously over the lashes to soften, hydrate and condition.
3. Work the serum under the shield to help gently release the lashes.
4. Once the lashes are free, remove the curved shield and clean any remaining residue from the lash line.
5. Remove eye pads or tape and brush through the lashes with a clean spoolie.
6. Do not rinse. Step 3 is a leave-in solution that will continue to condition the lashes after the appointment.

9. Aftercare Advice

For longer-lasting results, remind your clients to follow these aftercare tips or provide them with an aftercare card.

• Keep lashes dry for 24 hours. Avoid steam, water and sweat.
• Do not apply mascara or eye makeup for the first 24 hours.
• Avoid steam, saunas and extreme heat.
• Do not rub, pull or sleep directly on the lashes, especially during the first 48 hours.
• Avoid using eyelash curlers.
• Avoid oil-based eye creams and makeup removers.
• Brush lashes daily using a clean spoolie.
• Cleanse lashes regularly using a gentle, oil-free lash cleanser.
• Recommend a nourishing lash serum for regular home care.

10. Problem Solving Guide

If you have followed the steps above, your results should be smooth and consistent. If something did not go to plan, use the guide below to identify the most likely cause and adjust your technique.