Total Care System Lash Lift Guide

Q: No lift at all

Cause: Incorrect shield size, under processing, or lashes not properly adhered to the shield Solution: Use a smaller shield for more lift, ensure lashes are firmly and evenly adhered, and increase processing time if needed based on lash type.

Q: Uneven lift

Cause: Lashes not all stuck down properly or not evenly spaced on the shield Solution: Work in small sections, ensure all lashes are securely and evenly placed before applying solution. Re-stick any areas if needed.

Q: Results too subtle

Cause: Shield too large or under processing Solution: Try a smaller shield for a more dramatic lift, and slightly increase processing time for strong natural lashes. Always do a control check to ensure solutions have finished processing

Q: Lashes curling back onto eyelid

Cause: Shield too small or lashes placed too high on the shield Solution: Use a slightly larger shield and make sure the lashes are positioned in the centre or lower part of the shield curve.

Q: Lashes too lifted or over-curled

Cause: Shield too small or processing time too long Solution: Try a larger shield or reduce processing time. Always perform a control check partway through processing.

Q: Lashes Look Dry or Unruly

Cause: : Processing time was too long for the client’s lash condition, or lashes were already dry, porous, or compromised. Solution: Apply Step 3 generously and recommend nourishing aftercare. For future treatments, reduce Step 1 timing slightly and control check earlier, especially on fine or delicate lashes.

Q: Underprocessing (results fade quickly)

Cause: Underprocessing. Either Step 1 didn’t reach pliability or Step 2 didn’t set long enough; coarse lashes often need more time. Solution: Ensure lashes are fully saturated with Step 1 and only proceed once the control check shows the lashes are soft and pliable. If needed, continue processing in short increments within the recommended timing range. Apply Step 2 evenly and ensure full coverage.

Q: Shield won’t stay in place

Cause: Oily skin, poor placement, or insufficient adhesive Solution: Clean eyelid thoroughly with a protein remover or cleanser. Try using micropore tape along the edge of the shield to hold it down or place tape over eyelid and adhere shield to tape.

Q: Client experiencing irritation or stinging

Cause: Product touching skin or eyes, poor placement, or sensitivity Solution: Keep all solutions 1mm from lash line. Apply with care. Always patch test new clients and use sensitive eye shields if needed.

Q: Stick-down stage taking too long

Cause: Using too much adhesive or working in large sections Solution: Use less adhesive or Lift & Lam Balm, and work in small, manageable sections for quicker control.

Formulated with a balanced blend of cysteamine and TGA, Total Care delivers professional lifting results through a more controlled restructuring process. This gives you greater precision during treatment, especially when working with delicate or unpredictable hairs.

Prep & Consultation
Shield Selection & Placement
Lash Alignment & Adhesive
Step 1: Lifting Cream
Tinting (Optional)
Step 2: Neutralising Lotion
Step 3: Moisturising Serum
Aftercare Advice
Problem Solving Guide

1. Prep & Consultation

Client Consultation:

Before you begin, take a moment to chat with your client about their natural lashes and the look they’re hoping to achieve. Are they after a natural lift or something more dramatic and curled? This will guide your shield selection and how you position the lashes on the shield. For example:

A natural look is best with a larger shield and a soft upward lift.
A dramatic curl calls for a smaller shield and lashes placed closer to the base.

Lash Assessment:

Before selecting your processing time, quickly check these three factors:

Health: Healthy lashes are smooth, even in colour, and free from bends or frays — proceed as normal. Compromised lashes (brittle, broken, sparse) should be processed for less time or left to recover before treatment.

Coarseness (visual check): Fine lashes process faster, coarse lashes are more resistant and may need longer. Use the timing chart in Step 1 as your main guide.

Porosity (shine + feel test):

Shine: Low porosity lashes have a shiny or glassy surface and can be more resistant, sometimes requiring a little extra time. High porosity lashes look matte or dull and may take solution more quickly.
Feel: Slide fingers or tweezers gently along the lash line. Smooth/slippery = low porosity. Slightly rough or “grippy” = high porosity.

Reminder: Use these as clues rather than hard rules, and always rely on control checks to decide when the lashes are ready.

Avoid treatment if your client has:

Active eye infections (e.g. conjunctivitis)
Recent eye surgery or cosmetic eye procedures (within 6–8 weeks)
Extremely brittle, damaged, or sparse lashes
Known allergies or sensitivities to lash lift products
Broken, irritated, or inflamed skin around the eyes

Patch Test:

We recommend performing a patch test at least 24 hours before treatment, especially for first-time clients or those with sensitive skin.

Using clean hands or gloves, dispense a small amount of each solution and adhesive or Lift & Lam Balm onto separate areas of the inner forearm.
Let each product sit uncovered on the skin for 10–15 minutes.
Wipe off with a clean cotton pad — no rinsing required.
Monitor the area for 24 hours.

If there's no redness, itching, swelling, or irritation, continue to the next step.

Cleansing & Taping:

Clean the lids, lashes, and under-eye area thoroughly using oil-free lash cleanser or protein remover pads. Rinse if needed and pat fully dry.
Secure bottom lashes with eye pads or lash tape.

2. Shield Selection & Placement

Small – for short lashes or strong curl
Medium – for average lashes and balanced curl
Large – for long lashes or a softer, natural lift

Dry-fit the shield and lift the lashes onto it (without adhesive):
If lashes only reach halfway up → go down a size.
If they reach past 75% → go up a size.

Check the fit across the lid. Trim excess from the outer corner only if it overhangs. The shield must sit flush across the lash line. Use tape to lift skin if needed.

Apply a thin layer of lash lift adhesive (or lift & lam balm) to the back of the shield.
Press the shield into place from inner to outer corner.
It must sit snug with no gaps. If it lifts: re-clean the skin, use less product, or apply tape to the lid before reapplying the shield.
Gently hold shield in place for 20 seconds ensuring it has fully adhered

3. Lash Alignment & Adhesive

Apply adhesive or balm to the front of the shield in small sections.
Lift lashes onto the shield using a lash tool. Work from the base and align them straight upward, spaced like a barcode.
Avoid criss-crossing or gaps. Secure with your tool and double-check placement from multiple angles.

4. Step 1: Lifting Cream

Massage the sachet for 20 - 30 seconds to ensure the solution is well mixed.
Apply Total Care Step 1 Solution from root to tip
Work in sections and apply enough to coat, not flood.

Pro Tip: Place lash tape across the tips of the lashes to keep them in place and prevent the lifting cream from over-processing the ends.

Step 1. Processing times:

Fine lashes: 7 - 10 minutes
Normal lashes: 10 - 12 minutes
Thick lashes: 12 - 15 minutes

Note: If using lift & lam balm instead of adhesive increase times by 20%

Control check: About 1–2 minutes before the end of the processing time, gently lift one or two lashes off the shield and bend them back with your lash tool or tweezers. If they’re soft and pliable and bend easily, they’re ready. If they still feel firm or resistant, especially near the base, which takes longer to process then leave the solution on for another 1–2 minutes and check again.

How to perform a step 1 lash lift control check

Remove product with a clean applicator, wiping base to tip.

5. (Optional) Tinting

Total Care is compatible with lash tinting, giving you two options depending on how you prefer to work.

1) Standard Tint Method
After Step 2 has been processed and fully removed, tint the lashes between Step 2 and Step 3 using your usual tint and developer method. Follow your tint manufacturer’s instructions.

2) Express Tint Method
You can also tint and neutralise at the same time by mixing your lash tint directly with Total Care Step 2 Neutralising Lotion.

Total Care Step 2 contains Hydrogen Peroxide, so it can be used instead of a separate tint developer.

Mix: 1 part tint + 2 parts Total Care Step 2 Neutralising Lotion and apply from root to tip without disturbing the lashes.

Do not add a separate tint developer when using this method.

Process as per the Step 2 timing guide below...

6. Step 2: Neutralising Lotion

Massage the sachet for 20 - 30 seconds to ensure the solution is well mixed
Apply Total Care Step 2 solution from root to tip without disturbing the lashes.

Step 2. Processing times:

Fine lashes: 5 minutes
Normal lashes: 6 minutes
Thick lashes: 7 - 10 minutes

Note: If using lift & lam balm instead of adhesive increase times by 20%

Control check: Use tweezers to gently peel one lash away from the shield. If it snaps back into place in the desired curl then Step 2 is complete. If it sits away from the shield and doesn’t bounce back it needs more time.

How to perform a lash lift step 2 control check

4. Remove solution using a clean applicator

7. Step 3: Moisturising Serum

Massage sachet for 20-30 seconds
Apply Total Care Step 3 Solution over the lashes to soften and hydrate.
Work the serum under the shield to help gently release it.
Once lashes are free, remove the shield and clean any residue.
Remove pads/tape and brush through lashes with a clean spoolie.
Do not rinse. Step 3 is a leave-in solution that will continue to condition the lashes after the appointment.

8. Aftercare Advice

For longer-lasting results, remind your clients to follow these aftercare tips (or provide them with an aftercare card):

Keep lashes dry for 24 hours (no steam, water, or sweat).
Don’t apply mascara or eye makeup for the first 24 hours.
Avoid steam, saunas, and extreme heat.
Don’t rub, pull, or sleep on your lashes, especially in the first 48 hours.
Avoid using eyelash curlers.
Stay away from oil-based eye creams or makeup removers.
Gently brush your lashes daily with a clean spoolie.
Cleanse lashes regularly using a gentle, oil-free lash cleanser.
Schedule regular lash lifts

9. Problem Solving Guide

If you’ve followed the steps above, your results should be smooth and consistent.
But if something didn’t go to plan, don’t worry, here are the most common issues, their causes, and how to fix them. A few small tweaks are usually all it takes.

No lift at all

Cause: Incorrect shield size, under processing, or lashes not properly adhered to the shield

Solution: Use a smaller shield for more lift, ensure lashes are firmly and evenly adhered, and increase processing time if needed based on lash type.

Uneven lift

Cause: Lashes not all stuck down properly or not evenly spaced on the shield

Solution: Work in small sections, ensure all lashes are securely and evenly placed before applying solution. Re-stick any areas if needed.

Results too subtle

Cause: Shield too large or under processing

Solution: Try a smaller shield for a more dramatic lift, and slightly increase processing time for strong natural lashes. Always do a control check to ensure solutions have finished processing

Lashes curling back onto eyelid

Cause: Shield too small or lashes placed too high on the shield

Solution: Use a slightly larger shield and make sure the lashes are positioned in the centre or lower part of the shield curve.

Lashes too lifted or over-curled

Cause: Shield too small or processing time too long

Solution: Try a larger shield or reduce processing time. Always perform a control check partway through processing.

Lashes Look Dry or Unruly

Cause: : Processing time was too long for the client’s lash condition, or lashes were already dry, porous, or compromised.

Solution: Apply Step 3 generously and recommend nourishing aftercare. For future treatments, reduce Step 1 timing slightly and control check earlier, especially on fine or delicate lashes.

Underprocessing (results fade quickly)

Cause: Underprocessing. Either Step 1 didn’t reach pliability or Step 2 didn’t set long enough; coarse lashes often need more time.

Solution: Ensure lashes are fully saturated with Step 1 and only proceed once the control check shows the lashes are soft and pliable. If needed, continue processing in short increments within the recommended timing range. Apply Step 2 evenly and ensure full coverage.

Shield won’t stay in place

Cause: Oily skin, poor placement, or insufficient adhesive

Solution: Clean eyelid thoroughly with a protein remover or cleanser. Try using micropore tape along the edge of the shield to hold it down or place tape over eyelid and adhere shield to tape.

Client experiencing irritation or stinging

Cause: Product touching skin or eyes, poor placement, or sensitivity

Solution: Keep all solutions 1mm from lash line. Apply with care. Always patch test new clients and use sensitive eye shields if needed.

Stick-down stage taking too long

Cause: Using too much adhesive or working in large sections

Solution: Use less adhesive or Lift & Lam Balm, and work in small, manageable sections for quicker control.

Step 1 or 2 solutions not spreading evenly

Cause: Product is too cold or thickened from air exposure

Solution: Warm sachet gently in your hands before opening. Use a clean micro brush to apply and work quickly. Discard if consistency seems off.

Solutions are watery or runny

Cause: Solutions not mixed / out of date

Solution: Ensure the sachet is massaged & at room temp for at least 20 seconds before dispensing. Check B/B date on back of sachet.